How to Verify a Mastiff Comes From Health Tested Lines

The Mastiff breed as a whole is prone to numerous genetic health issues, the following of which can be tested for in breeding dogs to help ensure that these genetic problems are not passes on to the next generation:

• Hip Dysplasia
• Elbow Dysplasia
• Patella
• Cardiac
• Thyroid
• vonWillebrands
• Degenerative Melopathy
• Cystinuria
• Canine Multi-focal Retinopathy (CMR)
• Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA)
• CERF 

Of these tests some are DNA tests, meaning that if both parents of a litter are DNA clear then there is a 0% chance that any off the offspring between this pairing will have the gene for the disorder.  These DNA testable issues are; PRA, CMR and Degenerative Melopathy.  Recently a DNA marker for Cystinuria has been located and there is now a DNA test for the marker, but even if your Mastiff tests clear for the marker there is a slim chance they can express the disease.  Hopefully research in the next few years will isolate the genes for the other types of Cystinuria so we can have a 100% yes or no answer on the disease. 

Some disorders are polygenic, meaning that they are a mix of genetics, environment, diet, etc. While the genetic factor in these issues is a huge part of the determination of whether a puppy will be affected by the issue, other factors do play a part.  These testable issues include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, patella’s (knees), cardiac or heart, eyes and thyroid.   

So how do you verify if a Mastiff has had the appropriate health testing?  There is a wonderful little thing called the OFA (orthopedic foundation for animals).  Every test can be traced through the OFA if the breeder elected to do so when the test was performed.  If they elected not to make sure that the breeder provides proof that the test was completed and what the result was. 

Here is an example of the paper proof that a breeder might provide to prove the testing was done on a specific dog:

To look up a dog on OFA’s website direct your browser to www.offa.org.  On the left hand side of the screen there is a quick lookup bar.  Type the dogs AKC # or part of the name into the bar and hit search.
 

 

The dogs in the OFA database matching your search entry will show up. Click the dog you are interested in health testing information on.

 

 

You will be directed to the page for this specific dog.  You can also see relatives of the dogs listed below and their relationship.  This makes it easy to verify multiple generations of health testing.
 

 

While every breeders contract will be just a little bit different, it is important to make sure that a health guarantee is in place.  I recommend a guarantee on genetic issues that lasts for a minimum of 26 months, this gives 2 full months after the puppy turns 2 years to complete the health testing. Here is an excerpt of the health guarantee in my puppy contract.

“The following conditions apply unless the Mastiff becomes dysplastic due to an injury, incorrect diet, or obesity. Gryphon Mastiffs guarantees this puppy against genetic hip and or elbow dysplasia for 26 months.  At 24 months he/she can have his/her hips and elbows rated by OFA to clear them of dysplasia.  As part of this guarantee, Buyer agrees to have OFA hip and elbow rating done on the stated Mastiff no later than two years and two months of age.”

In closing, it is important to remember that regardless of written guarantees, no breeder can 100% guarantee you won’t have some issue pop up with your puppy, nutrition and environment play just as important a role in the puppy's health as genetics do. A reputable breeder will be there to offer guidance and suggestions as well as an empathetic ear for the life of the puppy.

Mastiff Breeder Lists - Locating a Mastiff Breeder

One of the biggest things I get asked and I see asked on message boards and facebook groups is “Where can I find a list of reputable Mastiff breeders.”  I’ll tell you that there is no magic list of these breeders, it is going to take a little time on your part in finding what you are comfortable with in a breeder and lifelong support line.  There are a few places to start though.

1.      Devine Farm (http://devinefarm.net/): This webpage was put together by a long time Mastiff breeder.  It contains tons of articles and info on Mastiffs, health, breeding, training and so much more.  All the information was provided by those involved in the Mastiff fancy, many being long time, experienced Mastiff breeders.  There is  a specific page that lists upcoming litter announcements as well as a stud dog listing.  I always recommend that people start their search on this webpage.

2.      Mastiffs.org (http://mastiffs.org/): This webpage and database was put together by Goldleaf Mastiffs, who have been in the Mastiff breed for a very long time.  They maintain a message board and forum where you can ask questions, a stud dog listing, there is a litter announcement section on their forum, and last but certainly not least there is a very nice listing of Mastiff breeders, some of which it even indicates whether or not the specific breeder does testing on their breeding stock.  Last time I was on this site some of the links to the breeder webpages were broken, but a fair number are still active and it’s a great resource.

3.      The MCOA breeder referral list: The Mastiff Club of America will send you a listing of their member breeders to begin your search.  The list does cost a few dollars to mail, and I have heard from some that it is not that great of a resource, but if you are wanting all the options available to choose the best possible puppy it is an option to research into.

4.      Finally, there are several Mastiff forums I recommend checking out.  All have a plethora of information regarding everything Mastiff.  These places are great to network with other Mastiff owners and breeders and ask for advice and referrals onto breeders.  Several of the forums I am active in are The World Mastiff Forum (http://www.worldmastiffforum.com/), Mastiff Forum (http://www.mastiff-forum.com/), Mastiff Online Community (http://www.mastiffonlinecommunity.net/), and Mastiff Chat (http://www.mastiffchat.com/). 

One tip I have when contacting a breeder is to call them.  So many people what to email or contact through a webpage, but in all honesty a lot of breeders have webpages, but don’t update them regularly and sometimes those email links get broken or emails don’t get checked.  If you really are interested in a puppy from someone pick up the phone and talk directly to the person. 

In closing, remember that you as a puppy buyer retain the sole responsibility of verifying all health testing has been completed on the breeding stock of a breeder.  These lists and resources are simply a jumping off point to begin your search.

Considerations of a Puppy Buyer | Tips to Establishing a Relationship With Your Breeder

If I’m on the side of the fence of a puppy buyer, it’s all about me. If on the side of the fence of the breeder, it’s all about the puppy and it’s quality of life and safety. Where do we compromise?  Well usually as responsible breeder’s we don’t.

While responsible breeders do ‘sell’ you a product, a puppy, this is not one of those ‘the customer is always right’ situations. This is a living, breathing creature. Common sales practices and procedures do not apply. Here are my suggestions if you are looking to add a puppy to your home. 



A quality puppy is worth the wait.

Look for a breeder, not a puppy.  If you’re only search is for a puppy at a specific time, say next summer, you are severely limiting your options.  Many reputable Mastiff breeders only have litters once a year (or less).  You are far better off to find a breeder you are comfortable with, when they have a litter you will get your puppy then. Now this may sound like exactly what you don’t want to do, but puppies are not interchangeable.  Breeder #1 might have several litters per year, but they are more than likely in the business of dog breeding to make money.  Their dogs probably don’t have the breed specific health testing done and their dogs are less than stellar when it comes to conforming to the standard.  Breeder #2 only breeds for their next puppy, they have all the relevant genetic health testing done on their dogs, because they don’t want to pass anything on to a future generation.  Because their dogs are family they live in the house.  They only have a litter every few years because when breeding for their next keeper puppy they have to make sure they have room in the house for a new family member. If you take a puppy from Breeder #1 because they have puppies now instead of waiting 6+ months for a puppy from Breeder #2 then you have just done yourself a huge disservice.

Looking for a breeder instead of a puppy also gives you the opportunity to make a personal connection with a breeder.  You can be sure both parties share the same criteria, goals, and expectations from a breeding. If the breeder you have chosen ends up not having a litter any time soon or the breeding doesn’t take, the worst that could happen is you form a great relationship with an experience mentor. They can refer you on to other breeders with the same morals and goals you are looking for in a breeder and dogs that produce the same quality or physical appearance and temperament that you are looking for.

The next item to note is that you should expect to wait for a puppy. I would say it’s rare to wait less than 6 or 8 months for the perfect puppy for your family, sometimes a year or better. Would you rather get a puppy today with no background or that doesn’t quite fit your family? Or wait to get matched up with a puppy that will mesh will with your situation.  In the long run you will always wish you picked the later.

Waiting when you want something so bad is hard,
but in the case of a quality puppy it's worth the wait.

When contacting a breeder for the first time make sure to introduce not only yourself, but your family and current pets, as well as provide some background as to why you want a puppy and how you’ve come to the conclusion that the Mastiff breed (or whatever breed) is right for you.  Be sure to include any relevant experience with the breed you may have or what research you have done on the breed to prepare your life and family for a new addition. It is also a good idea to explain what your plans are for this puppy.  Do you just want a family pet with a stable temperament; do you want a dog to show, a service dog, a therapy dog?  These items will greatly increase the breeder’s ability to determine if what they have to offer with their line of dogs will be the best fit for your family. 

On the other hand, if you shoot a breeder an email that says, “Hey, I see you sell Mastiff puppies, how much do they cost?” they are likely to trash that email and not respond.  You have to remember while you are purchasing a puppy, they are adopting out one of their babies.  I look at this almost more of an interview process with a purchase option for approved homes than a sales situation.  If you do come across a breeder who will sell you a puppy with little to no background knowledge of you as a purchaser, you should run!  If they aren’t screening homes, they have no real interest in what becomes of that puppy.  That means in a year when you need support and help with your puppy you will likely get no help.


If you have gone through the steps above and end up with the breeder telling you no, ask why.  If they believe your home, family or life style won’t fit well with a Mastiff you should revisit why you wanted a Mastiff to start with.  If you want one because they look cool, but want a dog that can jog 10 miles a day with you, the Mastiff is a poor choice.  If you want a Mastiff because you want a big dog, but don’t like drool, the Mastiff is a poor choice, etc.  You get my point.  If you are told no by several breeders you need to reevaluate your wants and needs and be honest with yourself about what kind of dog would fit best with your family.



When the cute puppy above turns into this
slobber monster are you prepared?

If you decide you are happy with a breeder, but also like an alternative breeder and are on their waiting list too, be honest.  Let each breeder know, there is nothing worse than calling someone who you have been corresponding with for months about their ‘perfect puppy’ only to hear that they got a puppy last week from so and so.  It’s okay to be on more than one waiting list, just be honest with both breeders so a puppy somewhere doesn’t get shorted on a quality home.  I don’t want to turn someone away because I have more puppies than homes only to find out ½ of those homes got a puppy from somewhere else and didn’t tell me. Also note that many Mastiff breeders are longtime friends or at least acquaintances. All breeders know the other breeders. If you come to Breeder A and are a complete failure in their opinion as a suitable home… then you go to Breeder B for a puppy, they are going to know.


So the day has come, you have been approved by the breeder, you talk once a week about the upcoming litter… now the puppies are here!  First thing you want to do is come and see them.  Who wouldn’t want to see the babies?  Well, don’t get to upset, because you probably aren’t going to get to for some time.  It is important for breeder to keep their newborn puppies in a clean germ free environment until their first round of shots (at minimum).  I know you want to come see how adorable they are when they are only a week old, but the risk of you bringing in some unknown pathogen, a parvo cell that you picked up off the sidewalk, a corona virus you got from the park yesterday on your shoe, or any other illness, virus or germs is too high.  Even if you don’t have pets the risk is still too great.  A good breeder will keep potential buyers up to date with pictures, but don’t expect to get to visit the puppies until closer to 7 or 8 weeks of age.


Also don’t expect to get to pick out your puppy.  Some breeders are more picky about this than others, but if you want the blue boy puppy for a service dog and he is standoffish and aloof he’s just not going to be the best fit.  If you want a puppy to be your first show dog and you pick a puppy deemed as “pet quality”, then you are doing yourself a disservice and setting yourself up for failure.  The breeder has been hand raising these pups for 2 months.  By this point in your breeder/buyer relationship you should trust them to guide you to the best fit puppy for your family.

All that being said, it is important to remember that a the breeders responsibility is not to make you happy, it’s to ensure each of the lives they helped bring into this world get the best chance to have a happy healthy life with the optimal environment to thrive.  A breeders responsibility is to the breed itself, bettering the breed, protecting the breed.  Just remember that the rewards of waiting to be matched with the best fit puppy far outweigh the frustration of waiting a few months to add a new family member to your household.

A Basic Understanding of Pedigrees

Tracing the lineage of a purebred dog should be easy, and the pedigree is the main tool used to do this research. Knowing the history of your pedigreed puppy gives you an excellent idea of what you might expect from the dog in the future. How it will turn out physically, what health issues it is predisposed to and what genotypes might be present.

Being able to visit the puppies litter, parents and other relatives is an important step in choosing a purebred puppy. Puppies brought home from a pet store have a shady background at best. How will you know whether or not a particular health problem runs in that litter or family of dogs? How did it's littermates and parents behave? What can you expect from the dog temperament wise? You have no history to compare the new puppy or dog to. It is always best to buy your pure bred puppy from a reputable breeder, after all, you are considering adding a companion and friend to your family for the next 8 -10 years.  It is not a purchase that you want to make on impulse.

To an amateur dog owner or potential puppy buyer a pedigree simply looks like a bunch of funny names on a page. Pedigrees are setup like a basic family tree.  The dog/puppies name will be center left, with its Sire (father) listed on top slightly to the right and its Dam (mother) listed on bottom slightly to the right.  The Sire and Dam’s parents are listed next (puppy’s grandparents) and so on and so forth.  Any reference to the puppy’s father’s side of the family is its paternal side and reference to the puppy’s mother’s family is the maternal side.

In researching pedigrees, breeders may use terminology to advertise a litter like “Champion lines” or “Championed pedigree”.  What exactly does this mean to an unsuspecting buyer? 

First of all what is a Champion? A Champion is a dog that has been shown to approved AKC judges in approved AKC shows and won enough points to earn the title of Champion.  It takes 15 points to earn a dog’s championship, which includes 2 major wins (I will reference this later).  The number of points in each show is determined by the number of dogs or bitches of the specific breed present at the show. The maximum number of points awarded at any one show is 5, so it takes a minimum of 3 shows to earn a dogs championship.  Included in those 15 points the dog must earn 2 majors under two different judges.  A major is simply a show in which enough dogs or bitches of that breed are present to make 3, 4, or 5 points available.

An International Championship through the IABCA is easier to earn than an AKC Championship, however it takes a getting a certain rating in three different shows by two different judges to be awarded this title.  A nice dog can complete this Championship in a weekend if several shows in the same location are offered. No competition needs to be present for the dog to earn it's Intl. Championship, hence why it's so much easier to gain.

So back to what a Champion Pedigree means... to reputable breeders this means numerous champions in the dogs first 3-4 generations.  For example, my female has 10 AKC Champions in her 4 generation pedigree (her parents, grandparents and great grandparents), 2 International Champions, and two dogs that did not receive their championship status. One of those happens to be her mother, who has 13 of the 15 required points and was unable to finish due to an injury.  This is a Champion Pedigree. 

Unscrupulous breeders will sometimes say their puppies are from Champion lines, but when you look at the pedigree you might see one or maybe 2 Champions 4 or more generations back.  This is NOT a Champion pedigree in my opinion.  After 2-3 generations of breeding to poor quality or sub-standard dogs, the genes of those Champions is diluted enough to make no difference in the quality of the puppies.

One might ask, if I am only looking for a pet, then why I care about such things as pedigrees, champions, lineage, etc.  Check out the article Why should anyone spend a little more money to buy a puppy from a show dog breeder?, for answers to these questions.