Brinkley Mastiff - Walking on Day 8, Post-TPLO Surgery

All I have for today is a quick video of Brinkley walking in the yard. Shawn is putting very minimal pressure on her sling (just enough to keep the handles taunt). She looks pretty good I think!

 

Read about how Brinkley's journey began here:

A MastiffsJourney Through Cranial Cruciate Ligament Surgery
Preparingthe House for a Mastiff After TPLO Surgery
ComingHome From the TPLO Surgery Center
Day 2 PostTPLO Surgery
Day 3 PostTPLO Surgery
Day 7 PostTPLO Surgery
BrinkleyMastiff - Walking on Day 8, Post-TPLO Surgery

And to read about the rest of Brinkley's journey:

Makin'Mischief Mastiff Collar... Plus Brinkley Day 11 TPLO Update
PassiveRange of Motion Exercises in Post TPLO Mastiff

Unsafe and "Safer" Anesthesia's for the Mastiff

We all know that Mastiffs are not built like a typical dog.  Because of their huge chest cavities and slower circulation due to their sheer size, many Mastiffs have a specific inability to metabolize drugs in the normal time frame that other dogs do.  Below I have compiled a very specific list of anesthesias that I personally consider unsafe or safe (or we’ll say ‘safer’) to use on Mastiffs.  Please remember that any time you put any dog under anesthesia there is a risk, but hopefully if your vet is willing to do a little research and listen to you as a client, that risk can be minimized.  It is your job to be the advocate for your pet, if you vet is unwilling to listen to your concerns or wants to use an anesthesia you aren't comfortable with, in my book that's the only indicator I need to find a new vet fast!

I wanted to note that much of this information was in summary taken from Dr. Robin M. Smith, DVM’s article Anesthesia and the Mastiff; however some is from my own personal experience or experiences of other Mastiff owners I am in communication with.  Here's a link to Dr. Smith's full article if you are interested: Anesthesia and the Mastiff

Anesthesia’s not to be used on Mastiffs

·        Acepromazine (Ace) - lowers blood pressure and dilates blood vessels, making blood pressure even lower.  It also metabolizes very slowly and accumulates in fatty tissues.

·        Xylazine (Rompum) - difficult to dose in giant breeds and makes dog susceptible to heart abnormalities.

·        Sodium Penthathol (or any of the Thiopentals) - stays in the system a very long time, if leaks from vein it can irritate or kill the tissue.

·        Halothane (gas) - sensitizes the heart and can cause irregular heartbeats - if used, closely monitor dog.

·        Atrophine - causes gut to slow down and predispositions dog to bloat.

  

Anesthesia’s that are safer alternatives for Mastiffs

·        Valium - not much effect on heart, can be used in conjunction with Ketamine.

·        Ketamine - not much effect on heart, can be used in conjunction with Valium.

·        Telazol - similar to Valium and Ketamine, but don't exceed a dose of 1.5cc total. (Some Mastiffs have recently had issues with this drug, so it may be moved to my ‘unsafe’ list soon)

·        Propofol – generally safe, used for quickly knocking dog out.  Dog recovers as soon as gas is removed.  Can sometimes lower blood pressure though, so dog needs to be constantly monitored.

·        Oxymorphone - can cause respitory depression in some dogs, so dog needs to be constantly monitored (Naloxone is the drug used to reverse Oxymorphone and seems to works well).

The Backyard Breeder v.s. The Responsible Hobby Breeder

This is just a quick reference guide I put together to help you in your choice of a breeder.  Be sure to watch out for some of the key indicators you are working with a backyard breeder that should not be breeding.  Steer clear of these individuals that don't have the wellbeing of the dogs and puppies as a top priority.

1.) The Backyard Breeder...Is motivated to breed because it is "fun", "good for kids", "to make money," or "thinks it’s good for the dog." Doesn't screen buyers  or does minimal screening and seldom refuses to sell, even if buyer is unsuitable.

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...Is  dedicated to producing quality dogs as a serious avocation. Has so much invested in dogs that s/he struggles to break even, rarely making a "profit." Will sell pups only to approved buyers.
 

2.) The Backyard Breeder...Breeds family pet or breeding stock to any convenient dog of same breed just to have purebred pups "with papers." Has no  knowledge of: genetics, bloodlines, animal husbandry, or breed improvement.

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...Can explain how and why the breeding was planned, with emphasis on specific qualities through linebreeding or outcrossing. Will often use a stud from another area, state or even country to make sure it is the best possible fit between the breeding pair.

3.) The Backyard Breeder...Has little or no knowledge of breed specific health issues. Though pet may be well loved, it wasn't tested for heritable problems prior to breeding. May claim they “they have never had any issues.”

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...Has breeding stock x-rayed to check for hip dysplasia and tests for other genetic faults. Can produce certification to prove claims. Or proof is documented with the OFFA.

4.) The Backyard Breeder...Offers no health guarantees beyond proof of shots, if that. Unqualified and/or unwilling to give help if problems develop.

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...Lifetime commitment to replace a dog with genetic faults or to help owner deal with problem.

5.) The Backyard Breeder...Seller has little knowledge of breed history or AKC "Standard." May claim that this doesn't matter for "just pets".

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...Loves the breed and can talk at length about the breed's history, background, uses, and ideal type.

6.) The Backyard Breeder...Pups raised in makeshift accommodations, indicating lack of long-term investment in breeding or sometimes raised outside.

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...Has a serious investment in dog equipment such as puppy pens, crates and whelping boxes and numerous puppy socialization items.

7.) The Backyard Breeder...Even when selling "just pets", may display AKC "papers" or "championship pedigree" as proof of quality. Yet seller doesn't increase their own knowledge through participation in national or local breed clubs. Doesn't show their breeding stock in shows to "prove" quality, often feeling that dog shows are too expensive, to cliquey or that judges don't know anything. Has no knowledge of ancestors listed on the pedigree, much less their ownership, health status or whereabouts.

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...Belongs to and is actively involved with local or national dog clubs which indicates a love for the sport and welfare of dogs as a whole. Exhibits his/her own dogs at dog shows on a regular basis as an objective test of how their stock measures up to the standard. Can identify ownership and whereabouts of all dogs listed on pedigrees. If they don’t show then they at least have an objective person assess their dog against the breed standard, an AKC Judge, a handler, or someone who does show that particular breed.

8.) The Backyard Breeder...May be unwilling to show buyer entire litter or to introduce dam and/or sire of litter. Can't or won't compare/critique pups or pups' ancestors.

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...Shows litter and other family members in a sanitary environment, generally in the breeders home.  Can see the area where the pups were whelped and raised with no secrets.

9.) The Backyard Breeder...Prices puppies at low end of local range, since most want to move pups quickly at 8 weeks or often younger or they are “just pet quality.” May accept credit payments or have a “cart” on their website where you can purchase a puppy unforeseen through Paypal. 

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...Prices will be at medium to high end of local range. Price won't reflect all that is invested in pups and the breeder will generally not accept credit or installments.  If buyer can’t afford a puppy upfront they most likely will not afford items like quality food, healthcare, or have money for unforeseen medical emergencies and vet bills.

10.) The Backyard Breeder...No concern for the future of individual pups or breed as a whole. Doesn't employ AKC's limited registration option nor ask for spay/neuter contract to guard against breeding of substandard pets. If you can't keep the pup, s/he tells you to take it to sell it. Doesn’t care if you chose to breed your puppy in the future.

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...After purchase, will help with grooming or training problems. Will take back pup you can't keep rather than see it disposed of inappropriately. Sells companion quality puppies with spay/neuter agreement or limited AKC registration.  Will not sell a puppy with breeding rights without a specific contract outlining acceptable breeding mates, health testing conditions, and age and frequency of breeding the dog.

11.) The Backyard Breeder...May use puppy broker websites like puppyfind.com, nextdaypets.com, ebay, Facebook or even craigslist to try and find homes for puppies. Uses terms like “vet checked”, “full-blooded”, etc. in their sales pitch to convince buyers of puppies value.
 

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...Generally has a list before the breeding even takes place of puppy buyers waiting on a puppy.  Puppies may be listed on breed specific websites, with pedigrees and full parental health testing listed along with the litter announcement

12.) The Backyard Breeder...Breeds a female for the sole purpose of making or selling the puppies.  If they do keep a puppy it’s usually just the last one left they couldn’t sell, not the pick puppy to carry on the best genetics in the bloodline.

The Responsible Hobby Breeder...Generally only breeds for their next keeper puppy.  Will not breed a litter just to sell the puppies. Will not breed more than a litter or two a year, and never breed a female twice in one year.

My Experience in a Raw Food Diet for Dogs

In a blog post we published in January “Choosing a Top Quality Dry Food” we outlined what to look for should you choose to feed dry kibble to your dog.  I hinted that I would like to try feeding a raw diet, but didn’t want to further elaborate until I had some experience.  

Well, the good news is we have been feeding raw since February and LOVE IT!  The dogs love it, they eat better, they drink less water (which makes me feel better about bloat and the heat this summer) and best of all, they poop so much less.  We’re talking about two 170+lb dogs that poop as much as mini poodle.  Their coats are healthy, Boone’s skin allergies have all but cleared up, they are very physically fit and I know exactly what it is that is going into my dogs.

The work I put into it is much less time consuming than I originally had anticipated as well.  While it does take more effort than pouring some kibble in a bowl, it isn’t like I have to butcher the cow each meal either.  I try and stick with feeding them approximately 3 lbs per day.  When I first started out I was weighing everything, however after a month or so I can estimate close enough the scale is unnecessary.  I feed on average 80% meat, 10% bone and 10% organ meat.  I do feed some veggies, while not a staple in thier diet they do act as a very health filler and the dogs love them.  Sometimes I puree various raw veggies and put the paste in cupcake pans and freeze it.  The dogs love them, I even mix in eggs or broth sometimes for added yumminess. I also feed whole sweet potatoes sometimes with meals or just as a snack. 

I will add that even with some of the recent recalls, should I need to switch back to a dry kibble, Diamond Naturals Large Breed 60+ is still my dry kibble of choice. If you are thinking of switching to raw or have questions about raw diets, I don’t claim to know it all, or even much at all, but I will give you my honest opinion in regards to my experiences. 

How to find a quality English Mastiff puppy and a reputable breeder

When looking at any English Mastiff breeder these are the things I suggest:

Be sure to ask to see all the health testing.  At absolute minimum the parents (and hopefully) grandparents should have:

• OFA Pennhip testing done on the hips.
• OFA done on the elbows
• Thyroid testing
• Cardiac testing
• Cystinuria testing
• PRA DNA (either the actual test or clear through parentage)
• CERF (eye examination)

Ask to see copies of the parents registration papers.  Puppies will only be registerable if both parents have their AKC papers.

Does the breeder show their dogs?  While it is not imperative that a puppy’s parents are champions it is important that the breeder understands the breed standard and that their breedings strive to improve their dogs.  Conformation is important, many things in the Breed Standard directly link to health, form and function.  For example, a mastiff with a straight rear could be prone to cruciate problems; or a mastiff with too long a back may be at risk for Wobbler's.  Showing also is a test of a dog’s temperament – can they handle stressful situations?  Are they dog /people aggressive away from the home?  We are seeing more and more temperament problems coming from poorly bred mastiffs.  If they aren’t shown in conformation do they do therapy work; have temperament testing done (i.e. CGC, TDI or a working dog title)?  Mastiffs are large dogs and temperament is essential.

Ask why they have chosen to do this breeding.  How do they hope it will improve the breed? Are they keeping a puppy from the breeding?

Visit their home.  What are the living conditions?  Meet both parents if possible and get a feel for their temperaments.  Make sure you feel comfortable with the breeders as you should have a relationship with them for the life of the dog. If I am going to financially support a breeder I want to be darn sure I know what kind of environment the dogs are kept in.

Do they belong to a breed club?  Most reputable breeders will belong to the Mastiff Club of America which has a Code of Ethics that a breeder must adhere to.  

What age are the parents?  I wouldn’t breed before 22 months (for both males and females) when you are able to see how the dog has matured and all health testing can be completed.  I’ve seen many mastiffs that were nice as puppies and teenagers that never matured into half decent adults.   Girls should not be bred after 6 years (preferably much younger).

Ask about how often the female has been bred are they pumping out puppies not allowing the female to recover in between breedings?  How many litters does the breeder produce in a year?

How are the pups socialized?  What age do they let them go?  Pups should never, ever leave before 8 weeks, I prefer a little longer as long as they are staying with their siblings.  Dogs learn a lot about bite inhibition and how to be a dog from littermates and their mother.

Ask to see the contract beforehand and read it carefully.  If there’s something you don’t agree with don’t be shy.  Mastiffs from a quality breeder should be sold on non-breeding contracts – these can be lifted when certain health/showing requirements are met.  If you are asked to enter into a co-ownership, think about it carefully before agreeing.

And ask for references and follow up on them.  Ask around the mastiff community, as well.

Please have a look at the Mastiff Club of America website for further information about the breed, health and much more.  They also have breeder referral lists that they will send you upon request.  That's a great place to start looking for a breeder.  Another website I recommend is http://devinefarm.net/.  There are  a ton of Mastiff resources there as well as a nice listing of health tested stud dogs and upcoming litters from all across the US.  If you need further assistance finding a quality puppy or even a rescue, please contact me and I would be happy to help you in your search.